Skincare Dictionary
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A-Z
ALPHA HYDROXY ACIDS (AHA)
Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) are a group of acids that occur naturally in fruits, sugar cane and milk. In skin care, they are used as exfoliants to remove dead skin cells, as well as to treat specific concerns.
ALLANTOIN
It is a a crystalline compound* found naturally in most organisms including plants, animals and microbes. It is used as a moisturiser to treat or prevent dry, rough, scaly, itchy skin and minor skin irritations.
*See below
ANTHOCYANINS
Anthocyanins are thought to be natural sun protectants as well as having antioxidant* and anti-inflammatory* properties. There have been a variety of studies that suggest anthocyanins have the potential to protect the skin from UV damage.
*See below
ANTIFUNGAL
Kills or stops the growth of fungi.
ANTIMICROBIAL
Antimicrobials kill or slow the spread of microorganisms such as bacteria, viruses, fungi and mould.
AMINO ACIDS PEPTIDES
Peptides are amino acids that are the building blocks of certain proteins needed by the skin, like collagen* and elastin*. Using a balm/moisturiser that contains peptides can lead to firmer, younger-looking skin and maybe fewer breakouts.
*See below
ANTHOCYANINS
Anthocyanins are naturally occurring pigments. They are thought to be natural sun protectants as well as having antioxidant* and anti-inflammatory* properties. There have been a variety of studies that suggest anthocyanins have the potential to protect the skin from UV damage, but this is still being researched.
*See below
ANTI-INFLAMMATORY
A substance that reduces inflammation (redness, swelling etc) in the body. They are used to treat many different conditions.
ANTIOXIDANT
Antioxidants are molecules that fight free radicals* in your body.
*See below
ASTRINGENT
Tightening/shrinkage of skin cells/tissues. Minimises appearance of pores. (Pores don’t actually change size but an astringent can help to give the effect of tighter, smaller pores.)
CAROTENOIDS
Carotenoids are pigments in plants and algae. These pigments produce the bright yellow, red and orange colours that we see in plants, vegetables and fruits.
Carotenoids act as a type of antioxidant* for us and there are more than 600 different types of them, some can be even be converted into vitamin A when released into the body.
*See above
CENTRIFUGATION
Centrifugation is a technique used for the separation of particles from a solution according to their size, shape, density, viscosity of the medium and rotor speed.
CERAMIDES
The word ceramide comes from the Latin cera (wax.) Ceramides are fats or lipids* that are found in skin cells. They make up 30% to 40% of your outer skin layer, or epidermis*. Ceramides are important for retaining your skin's moisture and preventing the entry of germs into your body. Think of a tiled floor, ceramides act as the grout inbetween the tiles to hold them in place. When it comes to your skin, Ceramides work in the same way, keeping the structure of your skin cells sound and strong. Grout also seals in the areas around the tiles, preventing water from seeping in. Ceramides work in a similar way but instead they keep water from escaping out, preventing it from drying out.
*See below
COLD PRESSED
Cold pressing is an extraction process to remove nutrients from a fruit. A hydraulic press is used to exert thousands of pounds of pressure to extract the maximum amount of liquid from the seeds of the fruit. No additional heat or oxygen is required so the nutrients from the fruit are retained.
COLLAGEN
Collagen is a hard, insoluble and fibrous protein that makes up one-third of the protein in the human body. In most collagens, the molecules are packed together to form long, thin fibrils. These act as supporting structures and anchor cells to each other. They give the skin strength and elasticity.
CRSYTALLINE COMPOUNDS
Are made up of particles or molecules that are organised in a specific order. An example would be ice particles.
CRYO-GRINDING
Also known as freezer milling, freezer grinding, and cryomilling, is the act of cooling or chilling a material and then reducing it into a small particle size.
DERMIS
Your skin has three layers: Epidermis, the top layer. Dermis, the middle layer. Hypodermis*, the bottom or fatty layer. Dermis is the middle layer and it has many different purposes, including protecting your body from harm, supporting your epidermis and producing sweat and hair. It is also the thickest layer out of the 3.
*See below
ELASTIN
Elastin is a skin protein which, together with collagen*, comprise the main skin proteins. Elastin is an essential molecule, any changes to it (such as when we age) affects the way our skin appears as well as the health of our skin.
*See above
ELLAGIC ACID
Ellagic acid is a naturally occurring compound. The best sources of ellagic acid can be found in strawberries, raspberries, blackberries, cherries and walnuts but can be also be present in other fruits, nuts etc. Ellagic acid acts as an antioxidant* and can decrease levels of inflammation. It may also help lighten your skin by blocking the activity of an enzyme involved in melanin* production. (studies are still being done.)
*See below
EMOLLIENT
A substance that helps to soothe, soften and increase moisture levels in the skin. They can help to prevent and treat dry, rough, scaly and itchy skin. They can also help rashes or burns.
ENVIRONMENTAL STRESSORS
Environmental stressors are external factors like pollution, smoke, UV rays, free radicals* and even harsh weather that can cause damage to your skin and upset the balance. They can even break down collagen*. Fair to say they are not good!
*See above & below
EPIDERMIS
Your epidermis is the outermost layer of skin on your body. It protects your body from harm, keeps your body hydrated, produces new skin cells and contains melanin*, which determines the colour of your skin.
*See below
EXPELLER PRESSED
Expeller pressing is a mechanical method for extracting oil from raw materials. The raw materials are squeezed under high pressure in a single step. A screw press is usually used and it will press the nuts or seeds through a cavity using intense pressure.
FATTY ACIDS
Fatty acids help to enhance skin hydration by sealing in the skin's moisture and preventing evaporation.
FLAVONOIDS
Derived from plants, flavonoids contain high concentrations of antioxidants that help to counter free-radicals*.
FREE FATTY ACIDS
Free fatty acids (FFA) are produced by hydrolysis.
FREE RADICALS
Free radicals are compounds that can cause harm if their levels become too high in your body.
FUCOIDAN
Fucoidan is a bioactive polysaccharide (responsible for the skin's natural ability to hydrate and retain water. They are also critical for skin repair and skin renewal) They occur naturally in seaweed. It’s function is to protect the plant from UV damage and water-borne bacteria. In skin care it can increase skin elasticity, for anti-aging effects.
GALLIC ACID
Gallic Acid is a biological active (meaning having an effect upon a living organism, tissue or cell.) Derived from herbs and sought after for its anti-fungal, anti-viral and antioxidant properties.
*See above
GAMMA-LINOLENIC ACID (GLA)
GLA is a fatty substance found in various plant seed oils. GLA is an omega-6 fatty* acid. The body converts GLA to substances that reduce inflammation.
*See below
HUMECTANT
A substance that promotes retention of moisture.
HYALURONIC ACID (HA)
HA is a humectant* — a substance that retains moisture and it is capable of binding over one thousand times its weight in water. This substance is naturally found in many areas of the human body, including the skin, eyes and in fluid around joints.
*See above
HYDROLIPIDIC
The hydrolipidic film is a light protective film that covers your skin. It relates to your perspiration, lipids*, sebum* and water, working to protect your skin against external aggressors like bacteria.
*See below
HYPERPIGMENTATION
A common and usually harmless condition in which patches of skin are darker than the surrounding skin. It occurs when there is an overproduction of melanin*. Hyperpigmentation may appear as freckles, age spots, or larger areas of darkened skin.
*See below
HYPOALLERGENIC
Hypoallergenic implies a less likely allergic reaction, but it should not be taken to mean void of any allergic reactions.
HYPODERMIS
Your hypodermis is the bottom layer of skin. It has many functions, including insulating your body, protecting your body from harm, storing energy and connecting your skin to your muscles and bones.
KERATIN
Keratin is a protein found in the structure of skin and hair. Keratins help form the tissues of the hair, nails, and outer layers of skin while also providing a protection barrier.
KERATINOCYTE CELLS
Keratinocytes represent the major cell type of the epidermis*, making up about 90% of its cells.
K6 is our patent pending formula that gives our balms their silky smooth texture. No greasy feel, just a creamy balm that gives skin a beautiful dewy look. Click on the highlighted link to know all there is to know about our special formula.
LINOLEIC ACID
Linoleic acid, also known as vitamin F, is an essential fatty acid naturally found in healthy skin, where it functions as a crucial building block for the structure of each skin cell
*See above
LIPIDS
Lipids are skin’s natural fats. They are essential components of skin, playing a crucial role in skin health and maintaining the strength of the lipid protective barrier.* They also aid the skin’s natural repair process. Skin identical Lipids mimic those in our skin. Compound/complex lipids contain additional groups such as proteins.
*See below
LIPID BARRIER
Also known as the Skin Barrier or Moisture Barrier, the Lipid Barrier is the outer layer of the skin. It protects your body from the external environment.
MACROALGAE
Macroalgae (seaweed) are multicellular marine plants found in clean, coastal waters and are divided into three groups based on their pigment: brown (aka kelp), red and green. Macroalgae form the larger, physical plant, while microalgae are microscopic single cells.
MECHANICAL PRESS
Mechanical pressing is the use of a machine to exert pressure to obtain a liquid or to compress solids.
MELANIN
Is a dark brown to black pigment occurring on the skin (also hair and iris of the eye) and is responsible for tanning of skin exposed to sunlight.
NIACIN
A water-soluble vitamin belonging to the vitamin B family, which occurs in many animal and plant tissues. Niacin is converted to its active form niacinamide a form of Vitamin B3. When used topically, Niacin/ niacinamide can improve skin hydration by preventing evaporation of moisture from the skin. It's also a natural anti-inflammatory* ingredient, so it's great for calming irritated skin but also good for people with sensitive skin.
*See above
NON COMEDOGENIC
Does NOT block pores.
OLEIC ACID
It is fatty acid* that is naturally occurring. It has anti-inflammatory* properties that help to heal, calm, balance and repair skin, especially conditions such as eczema, rosacea and psoriasis. Oleic acid also contains compounds that reinforce the integrity of cell membranes.
*See above
OMEGA-3 FATTY ACID
Omega-3s help to moisturise the skin and fight red, dry or itchy skin caused by skin disorders like atopic dermatitis and psoriasis. Omega-3s appear to improve skin barrier function*, sealing in moisture and keeping out irritants.
Omega fatty acids offer incredible benefits for the skin. They act as building blocks in the skin cells, strengthening the skin’s surface layers for a smoother, healthier and younger looking complexion.
*See below
OMEGA-6 FATS
Omega-6 fatty acids, such as GLA* are a family of fats found in plant oils and seeds.
Omega fatty acids offer incredible benefits for the skin. They act as building blocks in the skin cells, strengthening the skin’s surface layers for a smoother, healthier and younger-looking complexion.
*See above
OMEGA 9
Omega-9 works to maintain the level of hydration within the dermis*. Omega-9 has also been shown to improve the elasticity of the skin, helping to keep it looking plump and youthful.
*See above
PALMITIC ACID
As a fatty acid, palmitic acid can act as an emollient*. It can soften the skin and help it retain moisture by forming an oily, water blocking layer that slows the loss of water through the skin.
PHOTOAGING
Photoaging is where the sun prematurely ages the skin, which can lead to skin cancer.
PHOTOBIOREACTOR
A photobioreactor (PBR) refers to any cultivation system designed for growing organisms using artificial light sources or solar light to facilitate photosynthesis. PBRs are typically used to cultivate macroalgae.
PHYTOCERAMIDES
The term “phyto” means plant, so “phytoceramides” are ceramides* found in plants.
*See above
PHYTOCHEMICALS
Phytochemicals are compounds that are produced by plants ("phyto" means "plant"). They are found in fruits, vegetables, grains, beans and other plants. Some of these phytochemicals are believed to protect cells from damage that could lead to cancer. (Research on this is still being carried out.)
PHYTOSTEROLS
Simply put they are plant sterols* and are found naturally in a variety of plants.
*See below
RETINOL
Retinol is a type of retinoid, which is a fat-soluble organic compound and vitamin A derivative. Retinol exfoliates the skin, increases skin cell turnover and stimulates collagen synthesis. It is considered to be one of the best ingredients for anti-aging and skin clearing benefits. However, those with sensitive skin can sometimes experience irritation, so alternatives may need to be sought. Look for for natural sources of vitamin A - Sea Fennel.
SEA MINERALS
According to Stanford University, seawater contains 47 minerals and metals. The seafloor contains deposits of minerals that we use in everyday life such as copper, zinc, nickel, gold, silver and phosphorus. There are a plethora of benefits from sea minerals in skincare, from boosting hydration to reducing inflammation.
SEBUM
Sebum is an oily secretion of the sebaceous glands. It tends to rise to the surface through pores around your hair follicles. Sebum helps lubricate and protect your skin, essentially waterproofing it. When your glands are producing just the right amount of sebum, your skin looks healthy, but not greasy. Too little sebum can lead to dry, cracking skin.
SILICONES
Silicones are synthetic ingredients that come in the form of oils and gels. In recent years there has been some controversy over whether silicones can suffocate skin and clog pores but it hasn't been proven. As it’s an unknown we have decided to use silicone alternatives instead (Cetiol Sensoft.)
SKIN BARRIER FUNCTION
The outermost layer of your skin, known as your skin barrier, defends your body against environmental stressors*. It also simultaneously protects your body's critical water balance. Symptoms such as dryness, itching and inflammation can alert you to a disturbance, even damage, in this important barrier.
*See above
STEROLS
A sterol is a solid complex alcohol derived from animals and plants. Despite it being an alcohol based substance it is not at all drying on the skin. In fact they actually serve to lubricate and have an emollient* texture.
*See above
STEARIC ACID
Stearic acid is an emulsifier (stabiliser), emollient* and lubricant that can soften skin.
SYNTHETIC ESTER
Synthetic esters are manufactured by combining alcohols and carboxylic acids in an esterification reaction. There are dozens of commercially available alcohols and acids to choose from, and many feedstocks are derived from vegetables.
TANNINS
Tannins are a group of bitter and astringent compounds that can be found abundantly in nature. They are present in wood, bark, leaves and fruit of plants such as oak, rhubarb, tea, walnut, cranberry, cacao and grapes etc. Tannins contain anti-inflammatory properties that can help minimise redness and inflammation. For those who wish to reduce cell damage, tannins act as an antioxidant* against free radicals*. As a natural astringent*, they help remove excess oil from pores without drying the skin.
*See above
TELOMERES
These are little protective caps at the ends of the DNA molecules that make up our chromosomes. Their job is to stop the ends of chromosomes from fraying or sticking to each other, much like the plastic tips on the ends of shoelaces.
WILD HARVESTING
Wild harvesting involves gathering plants from their natural environment sustainably and ethically. For it to be classed as wild harvesting the plants need to be sourced from an area untouched by humans. This means the area should not be cultivated, and no pesticides should be used to grow the plants.
DISCLAIMER: None of the definitions above have been written by a medical professional. They have been found from online sources and verified by our Dewcy team. If you require further information on anything listed please contact a medical professional.